Frequently Asked Questions

Oklahoma's residential code for Climate Zone 3, which covers the Oklahoma City area, calls for R-30 in ceilings and R-13 in wood-frame walls in new work. The Department of Energy recommends more for existing attics in Zone 3: R-49 to R-60 if there is no insulation, or adding R-38 to R-49 over three to four inches. OG&E's attic rebate requires the finished attic to reach at least R-38 or 13 inches.

It costs more per square foot than fiberglass or cellulose, and it is hard to remove later, so mistakes are expensive. It must be mixed and applied correctly, and the house needs to be empty while it is sprayed and for a period afterward (HomeGuide says at least 24 hours). Sealing an attic with foam also changes how the house handles air and moisture, so ventilation and any gas appliances in the attic have to be planned for.

HomeGuide's 2026 guide lists $1.50 to $3.50 per square foot for open-cell foam and $3.00 to $5.00 for closed-cell. Fixr puts spray foam in existing walls at $3.15 to $7.50 per square foot. Thickness, access and prep move the number, and our written estimate after the visit is the price.

It depends on the surface. Open cell is common under roof decks in new homes and in interior walls. Closed cell is the usual choice for metal buildings, barndominiums, garage ceilings below living space and anywhere the foam may get damp, because it slows vapor and gives more R-value per inch.

If the attic has room to work and the ducts can be sealed well, sealing the ceiling and adding blown-in insulation to depth is usually the lower-cost option. If the air handler and most ductwork sit in the attic, foaming the underside of the roof deck brings them inside the conditioned space. We look at both and price both when either could work.

OG&E lists an attic insulation rebate for its Oklahoma residential customers. Its 2026 rules require existing insulation under 8 inches or R-23, a finished attic of at least 13 inches or R-38, and installation by a professional insulation company. Check OG&E's current page for amounts before you start.

HomeGuide advises staying out for at least 24 hours after spraying. The exact time depends on the product and how much was applied, and we tell you before the job is scheduled.

It can make a leak harder to spot, which is why we check the decking and look for stains before we spray. Any active leak should be repaired first.

Standard spray foam needs open framing. For finished walls, the usual options are dense-packed cellulose or an injection foam through small holes, which we cover on our wall insulation page.

Sealing the gaps where outside air leaks in reduces how much dust and pollen gets pulled inside. It is not a substitute for good filtration on the HVAC system.

Sometimes. If the ducts are in the attic, or there are rooms over the garage or kneewalls, foam often makes sense. If the attic floor is open and easy to reach, sealing plus blown-in may give you more for the money. We price both when both could work.

For Climate Zone 3, which includes the Oklahoma City area, the state's amended code calls for R-30 in ceilings on new work. That is a minimum. The Department of Energy recommends R-49 to R-60 for an uninsulated attic in Zone 3.

If you can see the tops of the ceiling joists, you almost certainly need more. Loose fill under about 8 inches is also well short of current targets. Hot upstairs rooms and high summer bills are other clues.

OG&E lists an attic insulation rebate for Oklahoma residential customers. Its 2026 rules require existing insulation under 8 inches or R-23, a finished attic of at least 13 inches or R-38, and a professional installer. Check its current page for the amount.

Usually yes, if the old insulation is dry and clean. If it is wet, moldy, full of droppings or blocking needed repairs, it should come out first.

For condensation control alone, a thinner coat of closed-cell foam is often enough. For a building you plan to heat and cool, or a barndominium, thicker foam is needed. We set the thickness by your goal and any permit requirements.

It is cheaper, but it lets water vapor through, so moisture can reach the cold steel and condense behind it. Closed-cell foam is the usual choice directly on steel.

No. Foam on the underside does not fix failed fasteners or seams on the outside. Leaks should be repaired first, or the foam can hide them.

It depends on the city or county and how the building is used. A barndominium permitted as a home will have inspections. Check with your local building office; we ask about it before quoting.

Yes. Dense-pack cellulose or injection foam goes in through small holes drilled from inside or outside, and the holes are patched afterward.

The state's code for Climate Zone 3 calls for R-13 in wood-frame walls on new work. For Zone 3 wood-frame walls, the Department of Energy lists R-20, or R-13 plus R-5 continuous insulation.

Foam costs more, but it seals the air leaks at plates, boxes and windows that batts leave open. If you are paying for a tight house, it is usually worth pricing both.

It can if moisture gets trapped, so we check for water staining, cracked mortar and missing flashing first, and choose the material accordingly.

For an open attic floor, blown-in over a sealed ceiling usually gives more R-value per dollar. Foam is better for roof decks, steel, tight spaces and new walls.

Kept dry and undisturbed, it lasts for decades. Cellulose settles somewhat after install, which is why it is blown a bit deeper than the target.

OG&E's Oklahoma rules focus on depth and R-value: existing under 8 inches or R-23, finished at 13 inches or R-38 or more, installed by a professional. Check its current page to confirm.

Yes. Blown-in work does not require you to leave. We keep the hose path covered and the attic access sealed off from the living space.

Not if it is dry and clean. If it is wet, moldy, contaminated by pests or smoke, or hiding problems that need fixing, it should come out.

Sometimes, depending on the policy and the cause. Ask your insurer. We can provide a written scope and photos of what we find.

Vacuum removal sends the material through a hose straight outside, so very little reaches the living space. We cover the path to the attic access as well.

We stop and recommend testing. Vermiculite can contain asbestos and should be handled by a licensed abatement contractor if it does.